Viewing the Grand Canyon is something everyone should do, but traversing from rim to rim should be on every adventurers bucket list. Below the rim lies billions of years of geology, a lush oasis of woodland growth and flowing creeks only accessible by foot or mule.
The Grand Canyon’s Rim to Rim (to Rim) hike has a few routes with varying distances. In this post we’ll highlight what we did, a nearly 50 mile winter hike that starts at the South Kaibab Trailhead. Once down in the canyon, we took the North Kaibab trail up to the North Rim and then back down. But instead of taking the South Kaibab out of the canyon, we took the Bright Angel Trail. If you’re also crazy and plan to do the rim to rim to rim (R2R2R) then this is our suggested route due to the intensity of the descent and ascent. This hike is considered difficult in almost every way. The cold seasons means there is snow and ice near the tops of the rims. The hot seasons means you’re dealing with 100+ degree temperatures nearly the entire way. The trails are well maintained, although tricky (icy, rock slides, thin ledges) in spots. Dogs are not able to use this trail since it’s within the boundaries of the national park. We did this hike in 3 days and 2 nights.
*This hike requires significant planning and logistics, so please do consult the Backcountry Information Center (928-638-7875) to sort out permits, parking, shuttle buses, services & water availability.
Details:
Directions (Google Maps): To get to the Grand Canyon Visitor Center (where you can take shuttles to the main trailheads) search for the Grand Canyon Visitor Center or click here.
Directions (old school maps): From Flagstaff, take Highway 40 West until you hit Highway 64 and go North. Everyone one this road will likely be going to Grand Canyon National Park. The Grand Canyon Village is where parking, shuttles, lodging and visitor center(s) are located.
Driving Info: There are tons of signs and spotty cell service but 99% of people on Highway 64 will be heading to the park. The roads are in great condition but keep an eye out for wildlife crossing. There are deer, elk, horses and cattle all around. Lots of wandering tourists as well.
Time & Weather: We hiked this in February. The top of the rims are very cold, and as you descend the canyon warms up. But like all desert hikes, you need to be prepared for all kinds of weather because you’ll likely encounter 2-3 seasons each day you’re hiking. For reference, it was 18 degrees when we started our hike at the top of the South Kaibab Trailhead at 9am. Once we got to the bottom of the canyon it was 45 degrees during the day. At night it dipped into the teens (less than 20 degrees!) and the top of the North Rim was almost single digits. Our final day, we woke up to 30 degrees, hiked during 40 degrees on the ascent out, and it was 20 degrees once we reached the top of the Bright Angel Trailhead around 2pm.
Gear: Again, it is challenging to give brief advice on this. Do tons of your own research. But at a minimum, you’ll need 3-4 layers for warmth. And due to the difficulty of the hike, you’ll likely sweat through multiple layers and need fresh dry layers each day. We wore merino wool base layers, a jacket for warmth, and then rain/wind jackets on top. This is in addition to thick socks, beanies, sunglasses, gloves, hiking poles, etc. In the colder months, micro-spikes are mandatory. Bottom line, you’ll need just about every hiking accessory you own.
Trail Navigation: The trail is easy to follow the entire way. There are only a couple junctions but they are well marked. There are decent bathrooms along the way, although not always in service.
Water & Food: Depends on your itinerary. But you’ll definitely need water treatment options. You can fill up at the creeks at the bottom. Sometimes (but not always) the campgrounds have accessible water stations to refill. For food, you need plenty of it, as well as a method for cooking it. Fires are not allowed in the park.
Trailhead Info: We started at the South Kaibab Trailhead. If you plan on finishing at the Bright Angel Trailhead, you can park there and then take the Hiker Express Shuttle Bus to the South Kaibab Trailhead. You can also take the Blue Bus to the main Grand Canyon Visitor Center before switching to the Orange Bus. You cannot drive all the way to the South Kaibab Trailhead – shuttle bus only. Both trailheads (South Kaibab and Bright Angel) have bathrooms.
Pictures of the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim to Rim hike:
*The picture sequences are based on our route. There are portions that are out-and-back so it just depends which way we were headed when we took the picture. Here are the details of our route:
Day 1 – South Kaibab Trailhead to Phantom Ranch, then taking the North Kaibab Trail to Cottonwood Camp where we camped the first night.
Day 2 – From Cottonwood Camp, continue on the North Kaibab Trail to the North Rim, then back down North Kaibab to Phantom Ranch where we camped the second night.
Day 3 – From Phantom Ranch, we took the Bright Angel Trail to the top of the South Rim.
Descending down the South Kaibab is our preferred route since it’s a sharper decline that we want to accomplish on Day 1. In the colder months the top portion does not get a lot of sun so it’s all snow, ice and mule poop. Micro-spikes are highly encouraged (mandatory in our opinion).
Right away the South Kaibab trail zig-zags steeply downhill. All the more reason to be safe and wear micro-spikes when ice or snow is present.
Very quickly, the views start to open up. The views change every few minutes based on the location of the sun & shadows.
Some pack mules hanging out halfway down the descent.
Sections of the South Kaibab trail are flatter. It’s best to savor these moments 🙂
Another line of pack mules – this group is taking outbound supplies back to the top.
The first glimpse of the might Colorado River. This is exciting because nobody at the rim ever sees the river in the depths of the canyon.
Tiny colorful dots are actually kayakers!
There are 2 main bridges over the Colorado. They are impressive engineering achievements.
From the middle of the bridge you get a feel for the intensity of the Colorado.
You’ll pass through Phantom Ranch once you cross the river (no pics yet) and then you’ll start to weave through more varied landscapes.
The trail follows Bright Angel Creek as it takes you from Phantom Ranch to Cottonwood Camp and onwards towards the North Rim. It’s a cold and refreshing source of water.
The Bright Angel Creek is just off to the left still, but some of the trail opens up to a wider canyon.
This pic is taken on our Day 2 after we departed Cottonwood Camp. We hiked a few hours without daylight so this is the first visible pic as we ascended towards the North Rim.
So many colors and layers. It is very difficult to capture on camera.
This is from the Coconino Overlook, which means we’re close to the North Rim. Note the snow levels.
We made it! The top of the North Rim, where the wind is howling, the temperatures have plummeted and the snow is deep.
After reaching the North Rim, we’re descending back down the North Kaibab trail. You can see the wild and weaving trail that hugs the edges of the canyon walls. You can also see Redwall Bridge, which is about 2.6 miles from the North Rim.
This particular section was extremely dangerous. We tread carefully. Again, micro-spikes come in handy in places like this. Off to the right, just out of frame, is a 300 foot vertical drop.
You can see the trail hugging the ledge of the steep canyon walls, with jaw-dropping vertical cliffs going down to the bottom of the canyon.
Here’s one of the many beautiful rustic stone cabins at Phantom Ranch, designed by famed architect Mary Jane Colter.
Adjacent to Phantom Ranch is Bright Angel Campground. You can see tents set up just to the right of Bright Angel Creek. This creek empties into the Colorado in about a quarter mile.
Here’s the other bridge used to cross the Colorado, this one via the Bright Angel Trail route. Note the rising sun and the retreating shadows on the towering rock walls.
View from the middle of the bridge. The currents are much swifter the closer you get.
Bighorn sheep grazing along the banks of the Colorado.
Once you cut away from the Colorado you follow a series of small creeks. In the colder months there are a few icy sections in the shadows.
Gorgeous rock layers surround you.
As you approach Indian Garden Camp, some of the path is flat. Again, savor these “easy” moments.
After Indian Garden Camp, it’s essentially all switchbacks in the shade until you reach the top. Note the ice clinging to the rock walls. The wind in this section was brutally cold.
No more pics from the top, but I promise we did make it!
